4 gpm - 6.5 gpm Pressure Washing Plumbing Kit

Included in the kit are as follows:

•  1 x Connection for the outlet of the tank depending on your tank type
  • Leg tanks use Bulkheads:  Choose the Bulkhead Kit
  • If the outlet of your tote is a 2" Type F fitting or looks Camlock related, choose the Camlock Kit
  • If the outlet of the tote is a 2" MPT, choose the Coupler Kit
• 1 x 1” 80 Mesh Y-strainer and drain hose with ball valve (The 5/8" ID drain hose is crimped on both ends and will be supplied in red, yellow or blue). The SCH 80 3/4" PVC ball valve should be installed at the end of the hose using non-drying liquid Teflon. The drain hose will allow you to clean out the filter while the unit is off, rinse your hands, fill a bucket with water and drain your tank.
• 3 x SCH 80 PVC grey hose barbs and one 90-degree barb just in case you absolutely need it
• 1 x 1/2" MPT x 1" brass hose barb for the pump inlet (Double check the port of your pump). You will need to remove the garden hose fitting on the suction or bottom port of your pump. You do not need a plug. You remove everything down to the head of the pump. If you have a bolt on unloader or integrated unloader, this kit may not work for you. We will need to modify the kit for you.
• 10' 1" Non-collapsible supply / suction hose AGC16
• 12' 3/8" Yellow ag hose for use as your bypass return line from the unloader to the top of the tank. 
• 1 x Banjo brand 1/2" bulkhead and 3/8" hose barb x 1/2" MPT brass barb for the bypass return line from the unloader (Please double check your unloader for this set-up).
• 6 x Stainless steel hose clamps

Completely remove the garden hose inlet on your existing pump.  Remove the inlet assembly so that you are able to install the 1" barb x 1/2" mpt into the pump manifold.

Remove the plug located on the bowl on the filter and install the hose into the top port of the bowl using medium blue thread lock.

****No warranty over-tightening this filter. Cracking this filter is caused by over-tightening. No warranty****

       We can offer a custom cut jump hose for your pressure washer to connect your pressure washer to your reel. Install your injector before your reel to prevent back-siphoning chemical into your unloader. If you need to connect this pressure washer to a hose reel, you need a 4500 psi and higher rated jump hose, 1 x 2401, 1 x 3878, 1 x 3004 and 2 x 2578 and 1 x 4780 to allow you to connect up and use your reel.

       We strongly recommend that you add the Hudson float valve and the Hudson float valve installation kit (Hudson-A or HB) to this purchase. The Hudson float valve (Hudson-HT) will prevent water from over-flowing onto the street.

Always rinse and remove your injector when not in use to improve flow to your surface cleaner.

       Pressure Washer Products loves to share knowledge. Mount the pressure washer as low to the surface as possible in relation to the supply port/bulkhead of the water tank but remember to use shock absorbing rubber pucks (4542) on your skid L-brackets of the pressure washer. Most pressure washers can be converted from cart with wheels to skid units by removing the wheels and installing L-brackets (1213) for your unit available through us.

Minimize the use of extra fittings.

Do not use galvanized fittings or metal ball valves between your pump and water tank because they will likely corrode and flake little chunks into your pump valves leading to vibration and/or damage. Avoid extra elbows. Do not use PVC pipe anywhere. PVC pipe can become brittle and doesn't tolerate the weight of a surface cleaner, ladder or your body weight for long. If not installed correctly, air will find it's way into your pump leading to manifold damage. Install components using non-drying liquid Teflon and never use Teflon tape.

Never adjust your unloader.

The unloader should be set using a whip hose, high pressure ball valve, high pressure steel tee, snubber and gauge to 200 psi above the operating pressure of the pump and left alone. Do not install check valves or any type of swivel fitting on the suction/supply hose assembly or air may become entrained causing expensive damage from cavitation.

Working with non-collapsible hose can be challenging.

When installing the hose into hose barbs, first slide the hose clamp a few feet away from the cut end. Grab some Slo Mo soft wash surfactant for sodium hypochlorite, dish soap or shampoo and coat your finger or old toothbrush with a generous amount. Apply the soap to the inside several inches and to the barb end of the hose barb. Turn on the heat gun and hold the heat source about 3-4" away from the hose end while rotating the hose as you try to apply the heat as evenly as possible. Heat only until the hose turns shiny and releases a single plume of smoke. Turn off the heat gun and set it aside to cool. Install the barb into the hose end and push it down against the ground or vertical surface. Allow the end to cool naturally, move the hose clamp up about 1/16" or 1/8" from the end toward the thread and tighten securely. Install the hose clamp to allow you to access it easily in the future so that you do not have to struggle to use a tool on the clamp.

       The unloader bypass hose that sends water back to the tank when you release the trigger on your gun should be installed using 3/8" or 1/2" kink resistant hose. The port should be installed so that the stream of water shooting into the tank does not point directly at the pressure washer suction/supply bulkhead. You don't want to create air bubbles in your supply water. The bypass hose running back to your tank will act as a back-up for your thermal relief valve mounted on the opposite side of your pump to the suction hose assembly.

Do not use Teflon tape on any fittings.

Use medium, removable thread lock (5003, 10 ml or 5004 50ml). Try not to use elbows or extra fittings. When at all possible, minimize the use of quick connects. Install the chemical injector at least 3' away from the unloader to prevent back-siphoning of chemical into the internal components of the unloader. Always remove the chemical injector assembly when not in use. 

• Inlet line size should be adequate to avoid starving the pump.
• Line size must be a minimum of one size larger than the pump inlet fitting. Avoid tees, 90 degree elbows or valves in the inlet line of the pump to reduce the risk of flow restriction and cavitation.
• The line must be a flexible hose, not a rigid pipe, and reinforced on suction systems to avoid collapsing.
• The simpler the inlet plumbing the less the potential for problems. Keep the length to a minimum, the number of elbows and joints to a minimum (ideally no elbows) and the inlet accessories to a minimum.
• Use pipe sealant to assure air-tight, positive sealing pipe joints 

Use a R2 or 2 wire jump hose on the high-pressure outlet of your unloader to your reel.